Adding floating shelves either for decorative or functional reasons can really change a room. These shelves are strong, relatively easy to build, and have no visible supports making them aesthetically pleasing.
Here I will show you how to build and install floating shelves all by yourself.
There are many different types of floating shelves, we will be focusing on closed-end shelves, like the ones pictured above, and open-end shelves that span from wall to wall, pictured below.
Preparation
The shelves I built are 3 inches thick and 10 inches deep. The length will vary for your specific project. If you decide to go with the open-end shelves which span wall to wall, the final length should be 1/4 inch shorter than the total length. This helps with installation since these shelves get installed at an angle.
Choosing wood type
This will depend on if you choose to stain or paint your finished shelves. Painted shelves need smooth plywood so the wood grain does not translate through to the painted finish, I was able to get this result using birch plywood.
If you choose to stain your shelves I would recommend oak plywood because it has beautiful and deep wood grain.
Materials and tools used
Below you will find a list of all the materials and tools you will need to start and complete this project.
Materials used
Wood Glue
Any wood glue will work for this project.
4×8′ ~3/4″ Plywood
I used birch because of its smooth finish. Its great for painting. Use Oak if you are staining your floating shelves.
18ga 2″ Nails
These will be used to attach project to the frame of the house.
18ga 1 1/4″ Nails
Thes nails will be used to make the floating shelves.
Paint
Choose a glossier sheene paint, this makes it easier to clean.
Wood Putty
This will be used to fill any holes left behind by the nail gun. This also can fill any imperfections in the wood.
Painters Tape
Use painters tape or delicate tape. This will prevent the tape from removing fresh paint.
Paintable Caulk
This will be used to fill any gaps.
Paint Roller
Use a roller for doors and cabinets to achieve a streak/brush free finish.
If you can have a paint sprayer, use that.
Paint Tray
Pick on that will work with roller size you chose.
Sand Paper
I used 220 grit sand paper for paint grade finish. If you are planning on staining, I recommend no higher than 120 grit.
Accent wall flooring
I would recommend your color choice of any Engineered Hardwood flooring.
Tools used
Table Saw
Straight cuts are a must for floating shelves.
Nail Gun
I highly recommend a cordless option. Air hoses and load compressors are quite a hassle.
Sander
Using a random orbital sander helps avoid the marks left behind from sanding.
Chalk Line
A great tool to have for making straight temporary and permanent lines.
Laser Level
This is a great alternative to a spirit level.
Laser Mount Pole
This is a must have for your laser level. Easily raise and lower your laser to any height.
Stud Finder
Every DIYer should have this tool. This tool helps locate studs, and electrical wires behind drywall.
Cutting out your shelves
Sizes
Below I do not include length, this will vary based on your own project. This can be any size you would like.
The depth of the shelves and thickness can also be changed based on what you want. Below are the sizes I made my shelves.
| Type of Shelf | Top & Bottom Pieces (1each/shelf) | Face Piece (1/shelf) | Side Pieces (2/shelf) |
| Open-end Shelf | 10″ Deep with 1 side Mitered | 3″ Wide with Two edges Mitered | N/A |
| Closed-end Shelf | 10″ Deep with 3 sides Mitered | 3″ Wide with all four edges Mitered | 3×10″ with 3 sides Mitered |
Building your shelves
Dryfit all your pieces making sure they fit snugly together.
We will be gluing as well as nailing the shelf pieces together to get maximum strength. I used Titebond Wood Glue and 1 1/4″ nails to bond the pieces together. I would not recommend using nails longer than that, you risk the nail exiting the finished side of your shelves.
Apply glue liberally to both sides, you might want to get a hand holding the pieces together while you nail them.
Start from one side nailing every 4″ all the way down.
If you are building closed-end shelves, you have two extra sides that need attaching. I install those pieces last. Use the same glue and nail process to bond those pieces.
After you have assembled all your shelves, set them aside to cure for at least 24 hours.
Ledger Boards
Ledgers boards act as the shelves support, they are mounted discreetly on the wall and the shelves slide onto them like a glove. This gives the shelves the illusion they are floating with no visible supports.
Open-end style shelf
If you are building open-end style floating shelves, there will be 3 pieces of ledger board that will be installed onto the wall per shelf.
Using the same plywood, cut out long strips which will fit snugly inside the shelves.
Then, use your table saw set at 22.5 degrees to miter off the edges of the ledger boards you just cut out. This will help the shelf slip onto the ledger board easier without getting caught on the sharp edges. See the image below for example.
Using a laser level or standard spirit level, install the ledger boards using 2″ nails, this will ensure you are reaching the framing studs. I used a cordless brad nailer by Dewalt. You can also use a drill bit and screws. On my wall, for the side ledger boards, there were no studs to nail to, I used construction adhesive to bond them to the wall and the same brad nails to hold them in place while the glue hardened.
Closed-end style shelf
This style of floating shelf does not have the utility of side ledger boards to support the weight of the shelf. Using the same plywood, cut out two pegs which will be used as support brackets, you will need two pieces every 4 feet of floating shelf.
These pegs will be the same thickness as the ledger board, mitered at one end. Use metal L-shaped brackets, found at your local hardware store, to attach the pegs to the ledger board. Placing them strategically to hit studs in the wall.
Now back to our shelves…
Patching & Sanding
Use a wood filler to fill any holes left by the nail gun and any imperfect seams.
I used 220 grit sandpaper to give me an ultra-smooth finish. If you are choosing to stain your shelves, do not use grit sandpaper over 110.
I also sanded all the edges down slightly, just enough to remove the sharp edge. You can also use a router with a 1/8” radius rounded bit.
Painting
There are many ways to paint shelves, I wanted to make sure the way I chose would not leave behind brush strokes. I used a paint sprayer and it worked great, I also can recommend using a paint roller designed specifically for doors and cabinets. I had lots of good results this way. If you are dealing with thick paint, thinning the paint will help reduce strokes as well.
Give it at least two coats, allowing it to dry the proper amount of time the paint manufacture recommends between coats.
I only waited 1 hour after my last coat to install the shelves. You will just need to be more careful not to damage the paint during installation.
Installation
Closed-end style floating shelves install very easily by slipping onto the ledger board. With the wall-to-wall floating shelf, you will need to install them at an angle, making sure to be careful not to ding up the walls while doing so.
These types of shelves will have a small gap on either side that will need to be caulked and painted to match the shelves.
Add decorations and you are all set to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Disclosure
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