If the toilet paper holder is the only “decoration” on your walls in your bathroom, take the next weekend to turn it into something you will be proud of. In our home master bathroom, we have a separate room for the toilet and sometimes it reminds me of an insane asylum, or more accurately where someone would lose their mind and go insane sitting in a 6×3 room with four white walls surrounding you.
In this blog, I will show you have a transformed your toilet room by adding a wood floor accent wall and a couple of floating shelves.
If you are here to learn how to make floating shelves Click Here
After deciding on a look by Friday, we had this bathroom transformation done by Monday. Enjoy!
Materials used
Wood Glue
Any wood glue will work for this project.
4×8′ ~3/4″ Plywood
I used birch because of its smooth finish. Its great for painting. Use Oak if you are staining your floating shelves.
18ga 2″ Nails
These will be used to attach project to the frame of the house.
18ga 1 1/4″ Nails
Thes nails will be used to make the floating shelves.
Paint
Choose a glossier sheene paint, this makes it easier to clean.
Wood Putty
This will be used to fill any holes left behind by the nail gun. This also can fill any imperfections in the wood.
Painters Tape
Use painters tape or delicate tape. This will prevent the tape from removing fresh paint.
Paintable Caulk
This will be used to fill any gaps.
Paint Roller
Use a roller for doors and cabinets to achieve a streak/brush free finish.
If you can have a paint sprayer, use that.
Paint Tray
Pick on that will work with roller size you chose.
Sand Paper
I used 220 grit sand paper for paint grade finish. If you are planning on staining, I recommend no higher than 120 grit.
Accent wall flooring
I would recommend your color choice of any Engineered Hardwood flooring.
Tools used
Table Saw
Straight cuts are a must for floating shelves.
Nail Gun
I highly recommend a cordless option. Air hoses and load compressors are quite a hassle.
Sander
Using a random orbital sander helps avoid the marks left behind from sanding.
Chalk Line
A great tool to have for making straight temporary and permanent lines.
Laser Level
This is a great alternative to a spirit level.
Laser Mount Pole
This is a must have for your laser level. Easily raise and lower your laser to any height.
Stud Finder
Every DIYer should have this tool. This tool helps locate studs, and electrical wires behind drywall.
Planning
You will want to locate and mark all studs on the wall you’ll be installing the wood planks on (or any other material you chose, such as shiplap.)
Either make two marks, one on the top and one on the bottom of the wall, or use a laser to then snap a chalk line along the stud. This will help give you a reference point where the stud is as you install your planks to the top.
I decided not to remove the toilet for this installation since there was just enough room to slide the planks in behind. But since the walls are not perfectly plumb I was unable to use full pieces and slide them down towards the floor. The wall was about 1/2″ narrower at the top of the toilet compared to the wall closer to the floor. So just the pieces behind the toilet I installed in two sections.
Installation
I used an 18ga Dewalt cordless nailer with 2″ nails to install the wood planks. Make sure you are installing the planks with the tongue side facing up, you will be nailing through the tongue at a downward angle. This will give you a clean look with no nail holes to fill afterward. If you decided with shiplap instead, this also applies.
If you have small gaps on either side of the plank, make sure to tape off your finish work with painter’s tape and use a paintable caulk and fill any gaps. Then use your finger, dipped in soapy warm water, to remove any excess caulk.
Building Floating Shelves
Since I used light wood flooring as my accent wall, I went with simple smooth shelves painted white to contrast nicely against the wall. I purchased birch plywood, which has birch as the finish layer, when painted does not show any wood grain and appears smooth. If you are using shiplap as the accent wall, perhaps consider staining the shelves your favorite color.
You will need a table saw that has the capability to cut at a 45-degree angle to build the shelves. If this is something you do not have, consider buying some already made floating shelves. I have included a link in the materials list.
Cutting out your shelves
Here are the measurements I used for my shelves.
You will need to cut out 3 pieces per shelf (top, bottom, and face.) For the top and bottom pieces, I cut 10″ deep and with a 45degree miter on one long side. I would not recommend anything deeper, as you might hit your head when rising from your throne, and it’s really not necessary.
The facepiece I cut 3″ wide (this will be the thickness of the shelf) and mitered on both sides. Please see the photo below for example.
When cutting out the length of your shelves, make sure to cut them 1/4″ shorter than the total length. When you go back to install the shelves, you will install the shelves at an angle.
Making the shelves
Apply wood glue to both edges of plywood liberally, then align the two pieces together and nail them using 1 1/4″ nails, set nails every 4″ or so. Follow this same step for the last piece of the shelf.
Use a wet rag to wipe off any glue excess right away.
After you have finished putting your shelves together, set them aside for 24 hours for the glue to harden. If you are doing this in a non-temperature control area, make sure you keep your drying shelves in an area with a temperature that is higher than what is listed on the glue bottle, room temperature is preferable.
Ledger Board
While the shelves are drying, we will get the ledger boards cut and installed inside the toilet room. The ledger boards are what will hold the shelves in place, ledger boards are mounted to the wall and the shelf itself goes over them like a sleeve.
Using the same plywood, cut out a couple of strips that will be able to fit snugly inside the shelf. See the picture below.
For the ledger board that will be installed on the back wall, use your table saw with your blade at a 22.5degree angle to miter off the top and bottom edge. This will help the shelf slide onto the ledger board easier during installation. See the photo above for detail.
The side ledger boards cut them 1″ shorter than needed. This will ensure your shelves will slide on completely.
When I went to install the ledger board for the sides, there were no studs to nail them to. So I used construction adhesive to install them. I nailed them as well, the nails would act as a support until the glue would dry.
Sanding
The next day your shelves are ready for sanding. Use wood putty to fill any nail holes, usually, it’s ready for sanding in about 30 minutes. I wanted a smooth finished surface, so I used 220 Grit sandpaper.
I also sanding down the edges slightly to take the sharp edge off. Use a clean cloth to clean your shelves and you are ready for paint or stain.
Painting / Staining
I used a paint sprayer from home depot to apply my color. Using a paint roller will work just as well. If you are looking for a smooth finish, find a roller that is designed for cabinets and doors. It works best if you want a texture-free finish. A minimum of two coats is what I would recommend when painting anything white.
Installing Floating Shelves
The paint drys to the touch in about one hour, so I installed it that same day.
Depending on how snug your ledger board fit was with your shelves, really there is no need for nails. I caulked the gaps on either side of the shelves with white caulk and that finished the look.
Now just add some decorations and extra rolls of toilet paper to the shelves and you are good to go.
Disclosure
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